Abstract

The genus Artemisia contains dozens of species known as “Mugworts” which have recently been marketed as novel ingredients in the treatment of dermatologic diseases and the enhancement of skin health. Over 100 products include Mugwort derivatives claiming to “repair and heal skin” and “make skin clean and clear.” Due to conflicting evidence and the eruption of Mugwort usage, we performed a systematic review of the available literature concerning topical Mugwort derivatives and their safety and efficacy in the enhancement of cosmetic appearance and various dermatologic diseases. Using Boolean operators on PubMed, 1116 publications were originally identified, of which 32 papers met the final inclusion criteria. All reviewed literature demonstrated significant benefits from topical Mugwort application including prevention of carcinogenesis via inhibition of ROS and tumor promoters, as well as reduced inflammation, reduced contact and atopic dermatitis, significant antimicrobial potential, and photoprotective effects. A. vulgaris, the most commonly used Mugwort, was particularly effective at increasing skin turnover and collagen synthesis, inhibiting metalloproteinases, and improving textural and antiwrinkle results. Sensitization reactions were absent after 3 weeks of application for all species at nearly all dosages. Future research must be expanded to include more human models and more longitudinal evidence of improvements/side effects to properly direct dermatological recommendations to patients and skincare product users.